35 Day Workout

Today is the third day of walking and we are both feeling the strain of the journey. Luke managed to get a few blisters but has taken care of them well. I also have one starting, and I don’t look forward to caring for it as I’ve never had even one on any of my other hiking trips. The muscles are ever so slightly starting to adjust but as with any workout program, the third day is often the hardest, we both took a good long nap when we got to our albergue in Cizur Menor, after a 7ish hour hike. The thing about this workout program is that everyday is leg day. So we look forward to future ease as we stretch and rest.image

The pilgrim community continues to be fluid. We see a lot of familiar faces, but also new ones. It is pretty cool to hear a little more about each person when you see then again. Today we also ran into Angela Peters, wife of Ed Peters, a Canon Law professor and prominent blogger. We had a nice chat with her before continuing on our way.  It really is a small Catholic world. Tonight we were able to attend Mass which is not already available, and again made some food in the Albergue kitchen.imageimage

-Michael

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Aching Legs

Today’s hike was much more flat then yesterday. However, the pain of the first day’s hills were felt.

Leaving the hostile we passed a sign that pointed to Santiago… 790 Km away. This was a hard sight when it was difficult to shuffle along the path. The pains were easier when we talked to fellow pilgrims. Today we met a man from Belgium, a woman from German, a couple from New York, and two girls from Sweden.image

One of the coolest conversations we had was with a fellow seminarian. He is entering the seminary next year in Minnesota. We had a great long conversation about the faith and seminary life.image

I am also amazed by how many different languages everyone speaks here. Not only English, but Korean, Swiss, and German. Every night is a gathering of people from all over the world. It is incredibly interesting hearing about different customs and similarities.

-Luke

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First One to the Top Wins

We left our hostel relatively late at 7:30, and began an ambitious pace fueled by our excitement. We hit giant hills immediately and they would continue all day, yet continued on for about 1 and a half till a break for morning prayer. During its duration, just about all 20 or so people who we passed started to pass us. The break having finished, the continued at a more moderate pace though we still passed many, especially those who stopped a while at a small hostel in the mountains where we only grabbed a sandwhich to go.

With 9kms under our belt, we proceeded to tackle the remaining 18. The mountain views were beautiful and kept getting better, as our mountain pass route wound around the summits with the next always higher than the last, the path was filled with look outs over the valleys or random herds of horses, cows, sheep, and goats. We met a number of other pilgrims (from London, a lot from Texas, Sweeden, more French, and Spain) we chatted with a few, walking a bit of the way together.image

The hiking ended with a knee killing decent, where in about 40 mins we lost about half of the elevation that we had gained in 6 hours. The day is drawing to a close in the albergue of Roncesvalles, valley of thorns, close to the spot where Charlemagne lost his rear guard, lead by Roland, while returning to France.  The town is tiny, 30 residents, and completely sustained by pilgrims and tourists. The albergue here is a pilgrim’s paradise, with good accommodations and services, and it is very clean! It used to be run by a monestary which is still standing as a museum.

On the spiritual side of things I have a few disjointed tidbits at the end of a long day.

Brother, high spirits, community, time for prayer

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From Lourdes to St. Jean Pier de Port

Today we traveled from Lourdes to St. Jean Pied de Port, the starting point of the Camino.

Just like our travels from Paris, there was major complications on the transportation. There was not a single train coming to Lourdes for the next two days. The only possiblity was a 6 hour bus ride zigzagging across the south of France. While we were waiting in the bus stop another pilgrim saw our shells and stopped us. (All pilgrims walking the Camino attach some shell to their pack to show others that they are on their way to Santiago.) She was in a similar predicament trying to get to St. Jean Pied de Port.

The young women was from Texas and was accompanied by her mother. They wanted to take a taxi as it would save 5 hours from the bus ride. However, there was only one taxi driver willing to make the drive and for a hefty price. We found one other pilgrim, a Russian woman who has been living in North Italy for the past 13 years. Together, the five of us split the fare to St. Jean.

The small town is nestled well within the large foothills of the Pyrenees Mountains. The view from our room is incredibly beaitiful. Tomorrow morning we will have to start making our way up those mountains to begin the Camino.

– Luke

There is no pictures attached to this post, because the media space is already over capacity. We are currently working to fix this.

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Lourdes: The Catholic Disney Land

When in Paris, we visited a number of tourist highlights including the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre museum, Notre Dame, and the French Catacombs. We ate at restaurants and sipped some espresso from a cafe. While in Lourdes, we have continued with the restaurants and added a castle visit and gelato to our list. During the whole pilgrimage we have sought out Churches for Holy Mass and to say a few prayers, especially at notable shrines. Our visit to Lourdes has been exceptionally beautiful, yet I find myself pondering again a question I had in Paris: What exactly is the difference between a tourist and a pilgrim? And why are we pilgrims if we have done so many touristy things?image

We aren’t pilgrims  just because we have bought food from grocery stores for a few meals. Certainly not because we’ve had some tough times like our travels to Lourdes or waiting a little longer for a meal because of Mass times or other activities. Nor are we such because we have said some prayers or since we are seminarians. Rather it is our intention that makes us pilgrims. We aren’t here simply to have an experience in Europe, to get away and travel, or see the sites and learn about the culture first hand by talking to people, eating the food, and staying in hostels. All of these things are good and a part of being a pilgrim but there is a still higher goal that we hold.image

We all know that, for a pilgrim, the destination is a big deal, but that the journey is an end in its own right. After all, a pikgrim is “one who travels through” taken from the Latin. But I would posit that the same is true of a tourist- I don’t think that the difference is made by a lot more walking, lots of people use transportation for pilgrimages, anyway. The journey is important, it shapes the traveler, but the end destination, which represents our ultimate goal in heaven, is the true heart of a pilgrimage. A pilgrimage is the intention to grow closer to God, to love him and follow him better, and thus to become a more virtuous person who understands, respects and cares for others.

Our faith is incarnational, dealing with the body and the soul, the human and divine. The people and cultures (even the more ordinary stuff like food and buildings) encountered along the way cannot be seperated from a pilgrim’s goal, rather, they help to form him and make him ready to arrive. Cultures are able to express different aspects of our faith and humanity. They help us to better understand ourselves and others.image

Lourdes, I think, is a great example of thsee two facts: that different cultures enhance each other and that ordinary, even touristy, activities are taken up by a pilgrim’s intention. In short, it is a Catholic Disney land. Two worlds collide in a place where you can walk through the outside holy door, near the main gate, with some gelato in your hand.

There were so many things to do here, and it was difficult to get a good look at a chapel without running into a group celebrating Mass. We began the day with a quick tour of the main churches, followed by confessions and stations of the cross up a grueling hill. Next, on our way to lunch, we stopped by the centre of town to tour the hill top fort (absolutely awesome). After a short siesta we headed back to the sanctuary to visit the grotto where Mary apeared to Bernadette, and the spring continues to flow. (I’ll spare the story, but look it up if you are unfirmiliar! Hete is a link to the full stroy, Wehttp://www.medjugorjeusa.org/lourdes.htm). We lit two candles for those whom we are pilgrimaging  and walked around the grounds saying a rosary and afterwards we attended an afternoon Mass. Later on I went back for the candle light procession. And there is even more to do there!

The place was crowded with people walking to all the different Christain “attractions.” Everone on their own schedule of events, waiting in lines for the grotto and confessions. And although there was a great sense of peace and stillness, there was always something happening, some group singing at Mass or a procession, or people just walking about. Lourdes is a mixing pot of people, which is more than evident by the nightly candle lit rosary where everyone ends up responding to the prayers in their on language. It was awesome to hear the different languages and to realize that we were all there for the same purpose.image

A pilgrim is motivated by a higher end: to become a better person by seeking to be more aware of God who is in search of us, and is reaching out to us through the church, our neighbor, and the world around us, every little circumstance.

I’m sorry if this has been long, but it is the result of a few lines of thought that have been building up. Besides, I’m sure I’ll have less to say after the long days of hiking ahead.

-Michael

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