Céad míle fáilte
A 100 thousand Irish Welcomes
Arriving- Dublin Take 1
Ireland runs through my blood. I entered the Dublin airport and my heart beat a little faster. Being one of the lucky six out of 22 to make the connecting flight to Dublin from Heathrow I had an extra 2 hours in Dublin where I got to sit down at a bar and order my first official drink. I sat down and was surrounded by Irish people and a group from France. They were all drinking beer and I was intimidated and didn't know what to order so I just got a glass of white wine. It was good- and it was 9 a.m. which made it even cooler. Being in this scene was invigorating for me! My dad always tells me stories of his brother being out at the pubs until the next morning, but I never fully believed him. I used to think –“how could someone sit at a bar that long?”, but as I sat around and listened to the stories of these people sitting in the Dublin airport at 9am it all made perfect sense to me. It was a part of being Irish, having that wit and being a storyteller. I was extremely touched by being in this environment for the first time.
Later that day when the rest of the group joined us we went on a walking tour of Dublin. Keep in mind we had not slept for over 24 hours, but that did not take away from the experience. It was in the high 60’s and sunny to welcome us into Dublin as we walked around and learned the basics: Stephen’s Green, Trinity, Grafton Street etc. Dublin was not what I expected. It reminded me of a little SoHo only much better because everyone had brogues. The culture seen throughout the city was very interesting. Each statue and memorial had a story. Just from hearing these historical stories the characters came to life and I felt as though I knew them. There is so much sadness and joy in each of these hero's stories. One that struck me was the great Wolfetone’s statue. We have spoken about him in class and I know his story, but seeing his statue in Dublin put it all into perspective for me.
The street signs had both Gaelic and English written on them. I thought this was so interesting. Many times in America people ask me if Irish people have another language. I usually tell them about Gaelic (because my name is Gaelic), but I explain that the people don’t really know it in Ireland. Well, I was wrong. The grade schools teach Gaelic to all of the kids and there are still some towns that mainly speak Gaelic. It spoke volumes to how important culture is to the Irish and preserving that sense of Irish identity.
Day one wrapped up with a nice dinner at the Belvedere. At first we turned our noses up to the Belvedere thinking it was not a very nice hotel, but by the end of the trip we were longing to go back feeling like it was home. The end of Day 1 lead to the start of Night 1. I won’t go into too much detail about the nights here, but be sure to check out my pub review section! All I have to say about the nights out is that they were one of the best parts of the trip. The people we met just from sitting at a bar in Ireland reflect the culture there. You learn so much and get to meet so many people. We didn’t stay in one night and it was worth being a little bit tired the next day.
Day two included some more tours of Dublin, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, the Pope’s Cross, the President’s house (which was surprisingly open compared to DC), Book of Kells, and finding the only vegan restaurant in Dublin. It was beautiful weather once again. The lady giving our tour was a very stylish Irish woman. What I found to be the coolest was that in the middle of tour she waved to somebody and exclaimed to the group that her son was giving the next tour over. Not only do the Irish people have a passion for their history and identity, but there is a strong emphasis on family. It was nice to see. One of the best parts of the day was the Joyce lecture. I felt honored to be hearing from a scholar from Trinity, but also it was crazy to think that Joyce walked the same streets that I had been walking all day. I saw the places that the legendary Joyce wrote about. I felt like a fan-girl, but it really is so cool to have everything put into perspective. This place is real and Joyce was here- crazy. After a lecture on Joyce later that day I got the chance to meet up with close family friends.
My dad was born in Ireland and his mother died during child birth. His father couldn’t afford to take care of him, so he had to send my father to America to be adopted. My father never met his birth family, so when I was 6 years old my mom made it her mission to find them. She did and now we are connected to his family all across Ireland. Before leaving for the trip my dad stressed to me that when in Ireland you feel home and that I was going to want to meet up with our family friends once I was there- and I am so fortunate that I did. I think the family atmosphere in Ireland was my favorite part. It instills a sense of connectivity in you. Between me meeting my family members and Mikaela being able to go to her aunt’s grave- you can feel that sense of family running all throughout Ireland.
We ended up going to the same vegan restaurant that we had found earlier in the day- I couldn’t have been happier. Naomi was my mom’s friend when they were younger and Naomi spent some time in America. We had a great dinner and they were so kind. We laughed a lot and they told me all of the cool bars to go to and told me I had to try a llagerbomb. It was so nice to see people that are so close to family. It makes Ireland feel even more like home, not to mention how delicious the meal was! It turns out that Naomi actually knew Joe our tour guide! They played trivia once together- what a small world! Everybody is connected in some way in Ireland.
(Times Mikaela has been to a Papa Johns or McDonalds: 3)
Cork, Killarney, and the Ring of Kerry
The next morning we were shipping up to Cork for another lecture at the Cork writer’s school and a tour of Elizabeth Bowen’s church. It was all very cultured and listening to the poetry by the speaker was one of the most beautiful things ever. The passion in his poetry and the crafting of each word was evident and impressive. Every word that he spoke was beautiful.
We ended up in our hotel in Blarney that night and it was extremely beautiful. We were now in the country part of Ireland which is completely different from Dublin, but neither is better than the other. After eating dinner together at the hotel I escaped to explore with some of the girls. It was dark, but we found an old bridge and a pretty cool old church. We took some pictures and explored which is what you have to do in Ireland- explore!
That night out was probably the most fun and the best Irish learning experience. Check out the pub section! Nothing beats famous Idris’s 40th birthday party! I could cry thinking about how much fun it was. An old Irish man came over to me and asked to dance with me. Him spinning me around on the dance floor to an old Irish song was worth all of the money for the trip and more.
The next morning not only did we experience extremely beautiful weather, but even more beautiful sights. The Blarney stone and Castle were gorgeous. I loved the story of Lord Blarney- He was going to be executed, but every time the guards would come to get him he would sit them down and tell them a story and they would forget to execute him. When the Queen found out he had not yet been killed she said “Oh, that’s just a bunch Blarney!” coining the phrase that people still use today. It spoke to the Irish wit and humor and ability to get out of any situation. We took so many pictures here and it was honestly impossible to not be happy. That’s the thing about the Irish- they’re all so happy! Ireland was spread with an optimistic attitude that was contagious. No matter how bad the struggle, the Irish are resilient and tough. It truly warms my heart.
Arriving in Killarney was extremely exciting. I have always heard so much about Kerry and Killarney and was pumped to finally be there! I left the hotel when we got there and went to explore before dinner and write in my journal. It was such a beautiful place and I got to meet an extremely nice young Irish family. They were so nice and happy. It made me think about raising my own future family in Ireland.
Dinner at the hotel was…. an experience. I quickly learned that veganism was not a popular practice in Ireland when there was only one vegan restaurant in their major city, but this was even crazier. I told the lady I was vegan and she brought me a plate with two large beef patties and told me “Don’t worry- they don’t have gluten!” (I enjoyed veggie soup later that night at a bar instead). She was so nice to me and I appreciate that so much. The experience also spoke to health in Ireland. After telling the story to Joe he explained that gluten free is a big deal in Ireland while veganism hasn’t really taken it by storm just yet. I think learning about the food of a culture and how the people eat is pretty interesting.
The Ring of Kerry- Nothing beats this. We drove in our bus around the extremely narrow roads on the Ring of Kerry. We started off the morning with some Irish coffee and visiting the Red Fox Inn. Then we continued and got to visit Brendan and the Sheep Dogs (which could totally be a band name if Brendan ever decided to go that route). The Sheep Dogs herded the sheep for us and we got to see what it was like to be a sheep herder in Ireland. Brendan was a great guy- he had an Irish wit, but different from Joe. He was more tough or serious so when he said something funny it was really funny.
My favorite part was standing on the cliffs and just staring out into the water and the land afar with the wind blowing into my hair. I just needed to take it all in. Ireland is honestly the most beautiful place I have ever seen and it doesn’t surprise me why the English wanted to control it. But it also made me think of all the struggle that happened on this land and in this country. It’s mind boggling to think a place that is so beautiful and in such harmony right now ever had to go through anything less.
Leaving the Ring of Kerry was sad because I didn’t know when I would see something so beautiful again in the near future. But back to Killarney for our last night there. We got Asian food, which don’t get me wrong was delicious, but definitely felt a little wrong to be eating Asian in Ireland. But so be it. The last night in Killarney was definitely one for the books.
(Times Mikaela has been to a Papa Johns or McDonalds: 6)![IMG_2486[1]](https://blogs.shu.edu/ireland-study-abroad/files/2015/03/IMG_24861.jpg)
Dublin Take 2 and The End
Pulling up to the Belvedere in Dublin we were all giddy. We honestly felt like we were going home. Even though we only spent two previous nights in Dublin we all felt like we were pros!
This night was extremely special because I got to meet up with my cousin Johnnie. He drove all the way in from Galway to meet me. We sat in Whelan’s for over an hour and chatted about life and family. It was so nice once again to have that family connection in Ireland. As I was speaking with him, in my head I trying to plan out my next trip to Ireland and how soon I could make it. He stuck some Euros in my purse (which is the Irish way) and even brought me pottery made by a famous Irish artist. This pottery is sitting in my room right now and has definitely made my appreciation of Irish art even greater. I love looking at it and thinking about the Irish hands that crafted it and what his story may have been.
The next morning was the dreaded day- our last day in Ireland. We jam packed it. We started off with a walking tour of the Easter 1916 Rising. The tour guide was phenomenal. He told us a story about the Rosie Hackett bridge- the first bridge named after a woman across the whole River Liffey. He said at the bridge naming a few months back they were giving speeches at the ceremony and there was a pause where an Irish woman spoke up and said “You’re honoring a woman and you think you’re so progressive, but why isn’t there a woman up there speaking.” The men all looked around to realize it was all men presenting this bridge. Women have a long way to come still in Ireland, but I love that story because that Irish woman who spoke up exemplifies the wit of the Irish perfectly. As Larkin told us about the Rising I couldn’t imagine that there was so much violence and unrest in Dublin. I have read about it, but as I ran my wholes across a bullet hole outside of the post office it became much more real.
Later that day we did (obviously) the most cultured thing one can do in Ireland- we visited the Guinness Factory! It was filled with some pretty interesting facts and it was fun to taste Guinness and of course to craft my own perfect pint. The best part of the Guinness factory though was the cab ride back where the cab driver told us so much about the history of Ireland. We were joking with him because of course we already knew much of what he had to tell us (after the 1,999,332 tours we went on), but it boggled my mind that a cab driver knew that much about the history and culture of the city. He cared. It’s important.
most of the girls after our day in the Guinness Storehouse
We wrapped up our trip with a visit to the Abbey Theatre for “A Midsummer Night’s Dream”. It was the Shakespeare language, however it was set in a nursing home. I love theatre, but let’s just say this was interesting…..hilarious, but interesting. It was certainly thought provoking.
We stayed out that night until 4:30- we were to meet in the lobby at 4:45. Packing was…interesting and I am still thanking God that I didn’t leave anything (except my heart) in Ireland. Pulling away from this beautiful country I couldn’t stop the tears. I have learned so much more about the culture that runs through me.
I am in love with the passion of the Irish and the resilience. I am so thankful for this trip and cannot wait to go back. I feel as though ever since I have been back my way of thinking has changed. I now approach the world with more patience and with a bigger smile. The Irish strength has taught me nothing less. Encountering a culture like this was incredible. Looking back at my pictures it is clear I was the happiest I have ever been. Through this experience I have a new appreciation for stories, Irish literature, and definitely Irish music. I wouldn’t trade it for anything in the world.
Taking off from Philly I met some boys from France who were extremely confused as to why we were traveling to Ireland for Spring Break. They thought a trip to the Bahamas would be more appropriate. At the time I said to them “It’s Ireland!” secretly thinking a nice warm trip to the Bahamas didn’t sound so bad. But now I wish I could go back and share with them why Ireland because I think everybody needs to experience it. Now when I say “it’s Ireland” I say it with a new found passion and understanding behind those words. The passion and understanding would tell them about Joe, the taxi driver, the memorials in Ireland, Easter Rising, Ring of Kerry, Idris, family and so much more. I’d say that beats the Bahamas any day.
(Times Mikaela has been to a Papa John’s or McDonalds: Too many to count)
Not Your Average Joe....
Joe Murnaugh…I don’t know what my trip would have been like without our tour guide Joe. Ever since I stepped foot in Dublin and hung out with Joe for two hours while waiting for the rest of my group, Joe and I had a special connection. He has the famous Irish wit where he would sing some Irish tunes, say some Irish sayings that would make you laugh but at the same time contemplate life, and of course he had a little bit of the devil in him. Joe was a mischievous guy who knew all the secrets. He told us the cool pubs to go to in Dublin, and in Cork we had such a great night because of him. Somehow Joe was able to find a pub in Blarney that was hosting a 40th birthday party for a small Asian man named Idris. The party just so happened to have a famous Irish band who had played for Obama months prior. That night Joe pulled me up front and saved a seat for me. We sat and clapped to the music and even danced. Joe was full of life and made our trip incredible. From being connected to everybody including my mom’s friend, to knowing every story about every place we went to Joe shed light on the smallest things in Ireland and made it a true learning experience. By the end of the trip I felt as though I knew Joe for years and I cried as I had to say goodbye. Thank you for everything Joe.
Pub Review!
Temple Bar: You have to go because it is the Temple Bar and it is famous- but only go once. It is a tourist attraction and the drinks are overpriced. The music is pretty great though and we had so much fun there!
Quays: This bar was in the Temple Bar area straight down the street from Temple Bar. We went here twice and it was so much fun. It still attracts some tourists, but it was smaller than Temple Bar and the music was on point.
Buskers: This bar was also on the Temple Bar strip but up further. It was actually more a dance club than a bar. It would put you to mind of a NYC club. We had a blast, but we were the only ones dancing. I would say to go here if you have a few drinks in you.
Pygmalion- This bar is near Grafton Street and it was one of my favorite nights. This one is more of a club too, but it’s where all of the Irish college kids go so there aren’t any tourists. We met an awesome group of guys born and raised in Dublin and they sat in a corner with us all night and sang songs- it was so much fun. It’s 21 to enter for some reason, but just wink and tell them you’re Americans and they’ll let you in.
Blarney Castle Bar-This was probably my favorite night just because it was very different. This was when Joe found us the traditional Irish music. This bar was what you want to find in Ireland. Traditional music, local Irish people- it was perfect. Definitely 5 stars!
The International Bar- This bar was in Killarney and I couldn’t give a good review of it because it was kind of dead while we were there, but they did have cards! This night was awesome because a big group of us sat down and played cards and had a couple of drinks.
The Grand- This was an awesome bar that you have to go to in Killarney- I’m sad we only found it our 2nd night! One half of it is a traditional bar with an awesome live band. The other half is a dance club. Lots of fun!
Whelan’s- This is the bar that P.S. I Love You was shot. Pretty cool to go to, but definitely a hike. There is a cover charge to get into where the bar was.
Copper Face Jack’s- You should definitely go here your last night. It’s a huge dance club that stays open until 6 a.m. Go later in the night after another bar. Lots of fun and lots of locals. Cover charge though!
Blarney Castle
Guinness Factory
Georgian Door